The New Denim Wave – WWD

Denim shorts, ’90s skater jeans, inventive shapes and remixes on the Canadian tuxedo were some of the leading styles that took the runway denim trend to new heights.

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who are seen as fashion oracles in some circles, predict denim short-shorts, jeans and a variety of Canadian tuxedos will be the must-have items come next spring. Prada said the collection “was about clothes that people could really wear.” Simons echoed that he was also attracted to “the idea of ‘normal’ clothing” that is transformed through “different materializations” and via mixing classic garments in new configurations. There is nothing more “normal” than a pair of jeans, and their collection pushed this norm-core view into a sleek social concept.

What is not to love about the idea of spare time? Silvia Venturini Fendi, inspired by the leisure spirit, infused it throughout her spring collection. “We’re returning to life and regaining control of our time. So this is a collection dedicated to this desire of spare time, because we all discovered that we like to spend it cultivating ourselves and our interests,” said Fendi.

Moved by this carefree attitude, the collection put forward an elevated and luxurious take on classic pieces, where denim was the star. Backstage, Fendi said denim is “the fabric that for me best represents this sense of freedom.” Bermuda shorts, ’90s skater cargo pants, Canadian tuxedos and an assortment of accessories were crafted from frayed denim with different washes and aging techniques, channeling a chill vibe, while adding an artisanal edge.

One of the kings of runway denim at present, Glenn Martens, does double duty as creative director of Diesel, which he’s reviving with a Y2K aesthetic while leading his celebrity-beloved YProject brand. For the latter, his cerebral approach to denim construction continues to redefine ways of looking at denim dressing, with his signature twisted constructions. For his spring collection, the intellectual exploration continued with oversized weathered jeans, denim jackets with flyaway collars and playful trompe-l’oeil prints. ”We really try to invite our customers to enjoy the garments and the game and play with it,” Martens said backstage.

MSGM, JW Anderson and Études were some of the brands that also played with inventive denim ideas, such as tie-dye jeans, mixed-media Canadian tuxedos and utility-inspired denim uniforms. This American classic is once again a hot runway item — but it’s everything but classic this time around.