Fashion icon hangs up couture to focus on philanthropy

When fashion mogul Dame Pieter Stewart​ launched what would be, the first New Zealand Fashion Week in 2001, her goal was to give home-grown designers a platform on a large scale.

Since then, fashion week has become a must-see event in Aotearoa, launching countless careers and brands, while showcasing the talent of Kiwis to the world.

Twenty years on and after selling the event to businessman Feroz Ali​ in 2021​, Stewart is ready to hang up her couture for philanthropy.

“I would very much like to take on a couple of governance roles. I’m also looking for charity organisations which I can be of use to,” she says.

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“But I’m mainly just waiting to see what pops up, because it’s only been a short time since I stopped running the business.”

The 76-year-old, prior to becoming the powerhouse behind fashion week, was involved with numerous charitable and community service groups, specifically in relation to paediatric cancer.

“I had to stop all of those things when fashion week became all absorbing for me. I’m hoping to get back into philanthropy because it’s where my interest lies,” she says.

The last fashion week was held in 2019 before the pandemic put a halt to all large-scale gatherings.

Stewart says designers felt “up in the air” during this time, but the ability to still sell and market digitally, changed everything.

“Most designers have really strong online stores, and for many during Covid, It was their saviour.”

As for the next fashion week, scheduled to take place in 2023, Stewart is looking forward to taking on a consultant role.

“I’m going to consult for a while to the new general manager Yasmin Farry​ and I’m looking forward to it. She’s somebody who has worked for us as a producer for 10 years, and she’s a wonderful, steady hand.”

She says this role won’t be taking up much of her time, leaving her free to pursue other interests.

For eager fans of fashion week, Stewart says: “We have dates booked for this time next year. So yes, we will be starting to work towards that.”

Looking back on 20 years of fashion week, she wants to honour all the people who’ve been involved in event over the decades.

“I couldn’t ask for more because 20 years is a long time. It’s just so important to acknowledge everyone who has made the brand what it is.”

Julia Leuchars ​, Trelise Cooper designer and marketing and communication director, says being without fashion week for three years has been difficult.

“We were so used to having this beautiful platform to showcase our stories and our brand while adding a bit of theatre to it, and suddenly, that all got taken away from us.”

She says the brand had to find a way to adapt, and its already established digital platform became the saving grace.

“I oversaw all of our different digital interactions, particularly during the first lockdown and engagement increased by 14,000% across our digital platforms which was amazing.”

But, she says, “there will always be a place for that amazing catwalk extravaganza”.

Leuchars hopes fashion week under the new owner brings a renewed energy and excitement as well as fresh eyes.

“It’s not about replacing, it’s about building on where we were, particularly pre-pandemic. For people in the industry, fashion week is a showcase of hard work, mixed with a level of theatre, excitement and passion.”

Margi Robertson​ founder of fashion design label NOM*d​ says the pandemic enhanced the necessity of having a digital presence.

But, what you can’t reproduce digitally, is an atmosphere, she says.

”I did miss the runway shows. Fashion Week was an opportunity to do our own show, to our own music, with our own models.”

She tips her hat off to Stewart for having the courage to “stick with it” for 20 years.

“What she [Stewart] achieved in her time was incredible. I think she was learning along the way like everybody else.

“But I think it’s also great to be able to let go and let in some new ideas. We are entering a new age, not only with fashion, but globally, too.”

She says she will be looking forward to seeing what happens with the next fashion week event, “just like everybody else”.

Myken Stewart, Dame Pieter’s daughter, says she hopes next year’s fashion week is bigger and better than ever.

“​I hope Feroz continues all the great work we’ve started and makes it more relevant and keeps on growing on what we built.”

She acknowledges there is no I in event, and over 20 years, many people from all parts of the industry worked together to create New Zealand’s thriving fashion scene.

“All the people here like the designers, security, the hair and makeup team, are all people who have been part of this from the beginning.”

As for what her mother has accomplished, Stewart says: “I’m very proud. She was a visionary.”