Fashion: The kurta’s coming of age
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Just a couple of years ago, the Indian fashion industry had touted the bandhgala as the country’s best fashion export. Cut to 2022, where the gaze has resolutely shifted towards the humble kurta. In the last two years or so, the kurta has seen such a massive transformation with designers across the gamut reinventing and reinterpreting it. Today, we’ve seen the kurta represent so much more than just a piece of traditional clothing—it has evolved into a canvas of expression of sorts, for designers and wearers to spearhead multiple causes like indigenous handlooms, craftsmanship, gender fluidity and East meets West, among many others. We spoke to designers at the top of their game who offer their opinions on the kurta and how you can take this simple garment and elevate it.
The kurta’s 2.0 avatar
We got to talking about the modern transformation of the kurta with designer Sanjev Marwaaha, whose gorgeous kurtas have Mumbai’s fashionistas raving. “Be it the disappearances of slits or moving into a shift dress-like silhouette, or ankle length kurtas that easily give loungewear vibes, the transformation of this outfit is immense and much can be written about it. The kurta being the quintessential flag bearer of gender fluidity, designers are thrilled that it breaks the bias of restrictions for clothing. This is the general direction that is being taken by the industry at large.”
How to style a kurta with a sarong
1. A perfect look for a sangeet or mehndi could be a silk sarong or lungi with a Rajasthani or Gujarati bandhani-badhej kurta.
2. Tuck your kurta in at the waist to give it a fun twist.
3. Keep that ethnic statement jewellery and footwear ready and flaunt this stylish look.
Sneakers on fleek
Ritcha Verma, senior fashion blogger and commentator, says, “For me, the best example of how the kurta is keeping itself relevant and appealing to the 2022 audience is how it is being paired with sneakers. There’s a whole bunch of silhouettes being created, people experimenting with long kurtas, ankle pants and topping off the look with a really nifty pair of sneakers. In fact, these days, you will even see traditional menswear designer shows at the likes of Lakmé Fashion Week, styling their models with sneakers under a kurta. The shift is real.”
How to style a kurta with sneakers
1. This season, the white tunic kurta is all over the runway. Grab one and get with the trend.
2. Try pairing it with a pair of track pants for the comfy athleisure style.
3. Put on your statement blue aquamarine shoes and be ready for the runway and the after-party.
The print revolution
While there is a wave of designers opting for minimalism, sharp angular silhouettes (Antar-Agni is a case in point) and perhaps even Japanese-inspired geometric cuts, there is a simultaneous trend of maximalism, anchored in the trend of prints. Take designer Payal Singhal, for instance, whose signature prints in vivacious colours need no introduction. At a recent showcase for her latest collection, we saw male and female models sporting the same prints in kurta pyjamas, lehengas, jumpsuits and coord sets, suggesting a larger trend of the male audience embracing prints even more. “The matching bride and groom,” Singhal tells me, “is quite a thing, as today’s bridegroom is happy to wear prints and experiment with kurta silhouettes.”
How to style sharara suits
1. A kurta-on-kurta with shararas are easy peasy to carry off. Simply layering full sleeves under a sleeveless kurta will make a great ensemble.
2. A kurta and a long cape always complement each other. Try it!
3. Balance this maximal look with simple sneakers for a busy family function.
The kurta goes global
What is the future of the kurta in the international context? Does the silhouette need to be adapted to suit the tastes of a global audience? Designer Nivedita Saboo weighs in, “Internationally, I see shorter kurtas with different bottoms becoming very relevant, especially when done in technologically-advanced, sustainable fabrics that will make it as versatile as the shirt.”
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From HT Brunch, August 13, 2022
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The beauty of the kurta is it can be paired with just about anything, from sarees to jackets and pants. Mayur Girotra, a designer who presents his kurtas in New York, San Francisco and London, says that this piece of clothing is being accepted by all nationalities. He opines, “International audiences have been pairing our kurtas with denims and pants. We have also been doing shirt kurtas, kurta shirts and kurtas paired with sneakers. Then, there is the gender-fluid angle where we have so many people picking up kurtas and wearing it as a kaftan or just as a dress.”
How to style a kurta with a saree
1. Use a kurta to drape a nivi or seedha pallu for a unique revamp.
2. Choose a printed kurta if the saree has solid hues and vice versa.
3. Panjabi mojarees are the right choice for this look.
Corset and comfy
Kareena Kapoor started a revolution after her 2007 film, Jab We Metwhere she wore the now-iconic black corset over a long, white shirt. The look can easily be updated with a kurta, which goes with just about anything. Pune-based couturier Nivedita Saboo says, “The kurta is in a very special place in 2022. It is going through a complete diffusion and transformation into a more casual everyday garment. It is seeing innovations like stretch fabrics, bespoke digital prints and edgy modern cuts, giving the kurta its relevance.”
How to wear a kurta with a corset and skirt
1. Layer your kurta with a corset.
2. To keep it simple and casual, go entirely monochromatic.
3. A hint of artisanal handwork detailing on your ensemble will give a subtle Indian touch to the look.
From HT Brunch, August 13, 2022
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