The Return Of Fashion In The French Capital

The fashion industry gathered at the Who’s Next Fair in Paris to place orders for the spring/summer 2023 season. Many brands continue to receive orders despite the risk of a recession in Europe.

Fashion companies return to Paris with optimism

“After two years, we have done very well,” Puneet Ahuja said in an interview during the fair on Saturday. “It’s like a fresh start, we are quite satisfied.”

Ahujasan, the owner of a New Delhi-based handkerchief company, was unable to leave India for two years due to measures to combat the coronavirus. It is the first time since the outbreak of the pandemic that it has been able to meet its customers from Europe in person again. So far it has seen customers from countries like Spain, Italy, France, Germany and the UK, but not from Scandinavia or Japan.

Although Who’s Next never stopped holding fairs after the outbreak of the pandemic, attendance was lower than in previous editions, as buyers and brands were unable to travel due to coronavirus restrictions. But the bustling aisles and booths at the Paris Fair, which began on Friday and ends today, suggest that business is back.

“With customers coming back to Europe, we think buyers and brands are even more enthusiastic,” Mercede Vafai, artistic and commercial director of Parisian fashion brand Naughty, said in an interview on Saturday. The brand has over 800 points of sale worldwide and has 40 stores in France and Switzerland.

In the previous editions the fair was quite empty, Wafai said. “The last two years have been tough for everyone and now everyone wants to go out and shop.” He expects revenue to increase from 45 to 60 million euros next year.

Who’s next is Retoma Nivelles Prepandemia

The fact that the SS23 version of Who’s Next has reached 1,000 participants is another sign of a return to pre-pandemic levels. Thirty-three percent are brand new, said Frederic Mauss, director general of the WSN Fair organization, in an interview on Saturday. “This is an important moment for us.”

He attributes the comeback to the fact that despite the hygiene measures, the fair never missed the shopping season during the pandemic. “You also can’t underestimate the need to look and feel in clothes,” he said.

Maus said visitor numbers could even reach pre-pandemic levels or drop slightly as shoppers in China continue to struggle with travel. Final figures will be published this week. Shoppers at department stores, online retailers, and multi-brand boutiques visit Who’s Next. According to Mauss, about 50 percent of visitors come from France, 25 percent from the rest of Europe, and the remaining 25 percent from the rest of the world.

cheerleader and light collection

The theme of the Superbowl brought a touch of humor and joy to the return of the fair. As in an American stadium, merchandising with a peacock mascot could be bought at the entrance, and cheerleaders acrobaticed in the fair’s aisles, as if they wanted to appease the fashion industry.

Entering the fair, long summer dresses with prints stood out, the light colors of the collection evoked holiday sensibilities. For jewelry, many more intricate golden earrings and necklaces were displayed, such as pieces from the French brand La Cabane de Fénet.

“It just keeps getting better,” said Fanet Hernett, the brand’s founder. It has delicate necklaces and earrings with dried plants surrounded by resin.

After performing for the first time last September, Harnett attended the fair for the third time. Their number of customers is increasing and the quantity they order is also increasing by 20 percent in sales. “This version is better because people from the United States and Japan are coming back,” he says.

New Customer

Many raffia bags and straw hats are easily found in the accessories section. Several sneaker brands can be seen, some made from durable materials such as apple leather, but also shoes with a strong design language of their own, like the Chi Mihara.

Yolanda Rico, head of sales for the Spanish shoe brand, said on Sunday: “It’s been a much better season for us than for the last season, as well as for other people I’ve talked to.” The first and second days were particularly good with customers from countries such as France, UK, USA, Belgium, Israel and Jordan in attendance.

Rico expects Sundays and Mondays to be quiet, as a second fashion show called Crescendo will be held in Parc Floral from September 4 to 6 with about 350 brands. Customers are buying more during the pandemic and the brand has also acquired new customers at the fair.

Despite a general sense of optimism, there remains uncertainty about how the business will develop from now on. Consumers in many European countries are concerned about inflation amid the Russian invasion of Ukraine and supply chain problems. Recent economic indicators in Germany and France point to the risk of an economic slowdown. But these trends don’t affect much of the brands that have participated in Who’s Next, many of which operate in the higher price segment.

“Everyone in Europe believes a recession is coming,” says Ahuja. “Everyone is worried about the war, because it’s been too long, but at the same time, there is an option to buy. So this Confusing, but the purchase is still there.” Ahuja said buying during the pandemic is up to 40 per cent strong.

Nicolas Bezi, country director of Danish company DK, said, “We are very pleased with our business in France. The biggest brands are doing good numbers and business volume, the new brands we are launching are evolving and Performing well.” Clothing brands like Ichi or Casual Fridays.

After halting for a few seasons during the pandemic, the company returns to the fair to present highlights of its brands, most of the shopping appointments will be done in showrooms.

“There’s a lot of questions about the economic crisis, soaring prices for everyday items,” Bezzi said. “Buyers are cautious, but at the same time we know life goes on and business goes on. We are positive.”

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE, and was later translated into Spanish and edited by Alicia Reyes Sarmiento.